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How to build a 2.2 Pimp Cane
2.2 Pimp Cane build
This is my personal 2.2 Clod Based Competition Crawler. I started building this a few months back and built it kind of on a budget. Then upgrading things along the way. Follow along as I show you how to build your 2.2 Pimp Cane to be the ultimate comp rig.
It all started with a set of Clod Buster axles. I ditched the old bushings and replaced them with a set of Yeah Racing’s Teflon sealed Bearings. Since I had the axles all torn apart I went ahead and locked the axles using CPE Aluminum lockers. I also upgraded to Thundertech Racings CVD’s and Straight axle kits. Once all that was installed I was ready to mount my Pimp Cane chassis.



The next step was to figure out what tires I was going to run. I wanted something that would provide me with a little extra ground clearance, but still be legal for the 2.2 Class. I started kicking the idea around about making some custom tires using 2.2 Moab sidewalls. I just didn’t know what other tire to use. I have always liked the M3 compound the Pro-Line had. So I choose to get a set of Maxx Mashers. They are 5.5in Tall. The cut-off limit for the 2.2 class is 6in. So I knew I would be safe to use them. I had David with Xtreme Rc Hobbies start on them. Few days later I had a set of 2.2 Jordans. Now with the design the Pimp Cane has and the shorter wheelbase. Flex wasn’t the best. So adding weight was a must for me. I used 6mm AirSoft BB’s instead of foams. The Airsoft BB’s give the taller sidewalls the support they needed. My wheels, tires and BB’s came in at 14.2oz per Tire. Now it was time to get some wheels. I choose some stampede wheels and narrowed the inner and outer bead. Mounted and CA’ed them on.


With all that added weight and the taller tires I needed some high torque servos. I just couldn’t get myself to drop over 100 bucks for a servo. (At that time) So I went with the MG945 made by Tower Pro. It’s full metal geared with bearings and as over 200oz of torque. Plenty for a 2.2. Two keep the wheels straight I used another great product from Thundertech Racing. There BTA kit. Came with everything needed to get that steering behind the axle and out of harms way. After that I replaced the stock plastic knuckles with a set of my Jp Custom Rc's Aluminum Knuckles. My knuckles where design to hold 4 Sub-C batteries inside the wheel. Well with a 2.2..That just won’t fit. I choose mine because they are by far the strongest knuckles out on the market. They are shaved for the maximum turning radius and have a super thick steering arm. They also have teflon sealed bearings that are almost twice the size of the stock ones. Stock Bearings are 6x12x4. This have 6x22x7 or 8x22x7 for 8mm CVD’s. Once that was done I had the best steering I could get with the CVD’s.

Time to install the motors. I went with Axiom 60t V10 handwound Crawler motors with RC4WD’s 8t pinions front and rear. Mounted all that together with Thundertech Racing’s adjustable motor mounts. To power the motors. There is only one ESC that I’ll run in a Comp rig. That’s the Mamba Max. Has a battery limit of 12 cells and can handle brushed or brushless if I ever choose to go that way.

I ended up having a custom battery pack made from www.cheapbatterypacks.com. I sent them a diagram of what I wanted and had the pack in 4 days. I needed something light weight but with good run times. 2/3 A’s 8 cell pack split into 2 packs of 4 cells. I placed 4 cells on each axle underneath the axle stays. Now you can’t do that unless you have flat axle stays. This is the lowest place you can fit a battery pack and still be out of harms way.

Time to set up front digs. I went with the DUD system. The DUD system is a switch thats wired into the rear motor to cut of power when you want to. Buy cutting the power you lock the rear tires up and you can perform some tight turns or help on steep climbs. Just wire up a 2nd servo set up on a 3rd channel that operates it all. Super easy and very effective results.

The 2.2 Class states that you must run a 1/10th scale body. I liked the look of the HPI VW Bug body. Come to find out. It has to be one of the best Comp bodies you can run. When you flip on your lid. It will keep going till your back on all fours again. Unlike other bodies with huge flat spots that just flip and stay on there lid.

The final out come was more then I could have every wanted.

You can watch a few videos here... CLICK HERE
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